Archive for the ‘Monday morning wave’ Category

Ode To Swell

April 6, 2012

Oh thank you swell you were so kind
Oh thank you swell you blew my mind
I hope that I will one day ride
Your stunning face another time

Magnolia Street, Huntington Beach, 2012

Monday Evening Wave.

November 25, 2008

“Try opening your eyes up real big after a buddy does an off the top in front of you, and at that moment when he sees you, he’ll feel like he’s surfing like Slater.”

– Paul C Barranco (surfer, action sports film/TV creator, Hair Club For Men member since 2004)


Heitor Alves, offshore banking in Bali. Photo: Dave Sparkes.

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